Fish River Canyon to Noordoewer; Leaving Namibia for South Africa; Noordoewer to Cederberg; Getting lost looking for rock paintings; Cape Town at last; Final dinner with the overland tour

Not much to report for a few days – just a lot of hot, boring driving. Everyone’s tempers are getting short – mine not least. I’m not really spending any time with the group now – just keeping to myself. It’s been remarked upon, but the alternative is inflicting my short temper and tooth-grinding on everyone else, so it’s best if I just stay away and try to marshal my patience for the home-stretch.

From Fish River Canyon we went on to a nothing little town called Noordoewer on the Namibian-South African border, and crossed the next morning. Our entry into South Africa was uneventful, except that I noticed that the border post officers were keeping a litter of kittens. I could get used to a country that lets border guards have kittens on their posts. The second-last evening of the tour was at a campsite near a town called Cederberg in the heart of the South African wine country. Thirty or forty kilometers away there are a lot of Bushman rock paintings that are said to be spectacular, but near to us there was only one unremarkable patch. We decided to try and find it anyway, because, well, we were there. The guide that usually takes people to see the paintings wasn’t around that day, and the campground staff were less than optimistic about our chances of finding them by ourselves, but we went anyway. It took us ages of searching, but – lost, sweaty and scratched up from the dry scrubby brush – we finally did. There were half a dozen human figures – male and female – and one monster or giant squashed spider or stretched animal skin (we couldn’t quite tell what it was meant to be but it was the neatest bit).

And finally, finally, around noon, we reached Cape Town – the final destination of the tour. Everyone scattered with hardly a word to each other, but we’re all staying at the same dorm tonight and we met up for a farewell trip ending dinner.


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Chris Liberty - Dispatches from a Gentleman Adventurer
Being the internal dialog of a vagabond who chased his own tail across five continents for 4 years and 2 days from May 2008 to May 2012, in search of something that never really became clear.
This travelogue comprises 16,426 photographs and 402,515 words in 307 dispatches written from 335 places in 52 countries on 6 continents around the world.
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