The Great Road Trip part 2; The Hexenloch; Triberg; Cuckoo clocks from hell; Triberg to Füssen; Hostel for Sheryl and car for me

We left our expensive guesthouse early after breakfast. It would have been so easy to sneak out without remembering to pay, but I just couldn’tdo it, even though the cost was stupidly high. We’d read in our guidebook about a country road called the Hexenloch (the Witch’s Hole). It was a narrow winding road at the bottom of a deep valley, quite pretty.It was very cold down there, though - I’m not sure the place ever gets any direct sunlight. It’s said that snow remains there until midsummer sometimes, and I believe it.

At the northern end of the road is the town of Triberg, known as the cuckoo-clock captial of the Black Forest (and hence the world). The town is covered in cuckoo-clocks - they’re everywhere. Just to explore the kitsch a little we went into the biggest clock shop - House of 1000 Clocks, or something . The sheer amount of ugly has to be seen to be believed. Lots of carved wooded animals, animated woodcuttters, pinecones and things. And of course the cuckoos themselves. The ticking and cuckooing was deafening. We were frozen in awe at the magnificent bad taste of it all.

Triberg took us to St. Georgen, a small town with some hiking trails. We got lost driving around looking for the trail-head, and eventually just made one of our own through the woods. We met some white goats and some bees flying slugglishly aroung shutting up the hive for the winter, and I nearly broke my neck climbing around on a woodpile that wasn’t as stable as I thought it would be. It was getting late in the day by then, so we found the car and started the long drive to a town called Füssen on the Austrian border. We weren’t sure we’d make it there, though - it was maybe 250km through mostly winding country roads - there wasn’t a decent highway route. The first leg was south and southeast along the shore of Lake Constanz, a long lake bordering Germany, Austria and Switzerland. When we reached the lake, the view that opened up of the Swiss Alps across the water was incredible. I couldn’t imagie living with that on your doorstep every day - that part of the country must breed visionaries.

We eventually did reach Füssen around 9:30, long after dark, after a few detours for highway construction and one big unintended shortcut through a series of tiny villages (we thought we were so lost w’d never get to anywhere we recognized, but it turned out to be a better route than the highway, go figure). It was a much warmer night than the last one, so I slept in the car in the hostel’s parking lot and Sheryl got a dorm bed. She smuggled me out a blanket so I wasn’t cold.

Chris Liberty - Dispatches from a Gentleman Adventurer
Being the internal dialog of a vagabond who chased his own tail across five continents for 4 years and 2 days from May 2008 to May 2012, in search of something that never really became clear.
This travelogue comprises 16,426 photographs and 402,515 words in 307 dispatches written from 335 places in 52 countries on 6 continents around the world.
Don't like using the map? Navigate through continents, countries and locations using the tree below.
Thrill to the exploits of our infamous sidekick Spidey (a small gentleman adventurer himself) in photo-essay form in his very own gallery!
Contact via Email:Contact via Email
Follow on Twitter:Follow on Twitter
Locations feed:Locations feed
Dispatch feed:Dispatch feed
Photograph feed:Photo feed